The only problem I have with the double-sided tape I use, is that the adhesive can build up on the bit when cutting through the material. I’ve never had it slip and it’s always easy to remove. I imagine the green or blue painters tape might have less adhesive.
This is what I’ve been using:
It’s basically double-sided paper masking tape, so it should be as thin or thinner than glueing two pieces together.
I have seen the adhesive from the tape stick to the bit (on non cutting surfaces), but I have not seen it have any effect on the quality of the cut or the tool life.
I just wipe it off the bit before I put it away
A Luthiers trick! It is all I use building guitars and making templates. You can also use the trick to glue a Sharpie to the side of the motor mount to do test patterns!
Yep!!
Works a treat and it’s cheap to do
Dang… I keep forgetting to try it. I even bought the superglue. But I just quickly screw down my material… soon!
So I just tried this with the blue painters tape and crazy glue gel… no dice. I’m going to try regular super glue and standard masking tape once I get a chance to run to the store.
I suspect the waxy coating on the blue tape prevented the glue from adhering.
I have been using the blue 3m #2090 multi-use tape. works great
That sucks. I used the blue painter’s tape because that is what I had for my 3d printer. It worked ok for me. Be sure to get quick set glue. The one I got says “10 sec” on it. It still takes 24 hours for full cure, but can be handled much sooner.
Let us know how it goes 
Good clarification… I’ll try that, all I had was the gel-style Crazy Glue, so maybe that’s the culprit, I assumed it was the blue tape…
I’ll test and report back
Love this. I used thick Stick Fast CA glue from Rockler and the Stick Fast activator along with wide blue painter’s tape. My material did not move at all…even when I broke my bit. (Oops - first time for that…)
One caveat - I squiggled the glue down the wide tape and it must have oozed a little bit outside of the tape and stuck my piece to my spoilboard - but it was just a little bit and with a putty knife and a little persuasion, it came right up with no detriment to the spoilboard.
Great tip!
Just got done with 3 fully cut pieces out of 1 piece of wood, and 2 of the 3 pieces came loose during cutting. I’m using a finished pine board, frog tape (the green painters tape), and a medium CA and accelerator.
The tape’s adhesive actually came off the work piece, but the super glue part worked very well. I think the adhesive on the painters tape is just not quite strong enough.
I’ve tried double sided duct tape which held very well, but also gums up the piece and the bit, and it’s a pain to clean up.
Anyone else have any luck with a particular brand of tape for this method?
This is what I use (and I’m using it at this very moment!) and have had excellent results.
http://www.lowes.com/pd/Shurtape-1-41-in-x-42-ft-White-Double-Sided-Seam-Tape/50037492
I just use the standard blue 3m painter’s tape usually. I grabbed some cheap wal mart tape the other day and it worked pretty well. I know last time I painted, I used Frog tape, and it seemed to peel off more easily than some of the others.
I use 3M masking tape from my local hardware store and gorilla super glue and it holds very well
I have used several kinds of tapes and they all worked fine. With the Blue painters tape there are various types of “stick”. I can’t remember the exact names, but basically some types are light grip and some are regular grip, etc. I use both blue tape and some general purpose manila colored tape. the secret seems to be to make sure you get the tape pressed down firmly on both the spoil board and the work piece. Then I put the accelerator on the work piece tape, and then the super glue (I have started using the cheap Walmart glue cause I use so much) on the spoil board tape in a zigzag line. Then firmly press and hold the two pieces together to make sure the bond has time to cure. The best results come if I give it a minute to dry…I use that time to install the bit I am using. The bigger the piece you are cutting the more rows of tape you need to use. If you have a lot of small full depth cuts, I try and put a row of tape in that area so that it catches as much as possible of that piece.
This is what I use (and I’m using it at this very moment!) and have had excellent results.
http://www.lowes.com/pd/Shurtape-1-41-in-x-42-ft-White-Double-Sided-Seam-Tape/5003749211
I just used this tape, and it worked fantastic! A little residue was left on the bit, but a little citrus cleaner took care of that. Zero residue was left on the wood and it peels right off the work piece and waste board with minimal effort.
I’ve been using this stuff. Pretty reliable and easy to remove. Same brand as the carpet tape which I haven’t used, so not sure if one is better or if they may even be the same. Shurtape DF-65
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F548WYC
Im now using a glue gun … tape and glue gun …
Bam!
Thought you were doing that a long time ago. Welcome to the 21st.
That video is Mark Lindsy. He just build the same CNC I am.
