Can I use x2 10A 48v PSU? Double it up (parallel) to get the (20A) amperage? Or just wire one to x,z and one to y1,y2?
@LarryM
My preference would be to wire them to individual drivers and not parallel them. For some power supplies it would be ok to parallel them, but my guess is that you are not using expensive power supplies.
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$75 for a 12.5A
Or $35 for 10A
DROK Adjustable DC Power Voltage Converter AC 110V-220V to DC 0-48V Module 48V 10A Switching Power Supply Digital Display 480W Voltage Regulator Transformer Built in Cooling Fan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0716XVR7P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_98r2AbY8GBP2S
The reviews of that power supply indicate that it cannot actually output 48 volts.
One reviewer could only get 39 volts from the unit.
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Seems most people are happy with it. And oh yeah amazon takes returns 
.
One of the main reasons I use Amazon a lot. There is so much crap out there. Hard to find good products these days.
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As Larry said, use 1 PSU on two drivers and then another PSU on the other two drivers.
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Phantomm,
Can you flip one each around so that the fine are pointing toward each other and mount the fan so that they blow through the heat sinks? You would probably want to leave a little space between the flat backs between the mounted pairs for natural circulation as well as wire up the connectors off of the TB6600 (that’s what the push in types are good for… 
)
You’ll have to excuse the crude quickie drawing
I would expect much better cooling with this type of arrangement.
{:0)
Brandon Parker
I thought about it but I would still miss some of the vrm’s. Either way I was told they did not get that hot and just needs some fresh air to keep em cool. I’m guessing the thermal mass of the aluminum heat sink and it’s ability to exchange heat via the fins are enough with minimal air movement.
USB cable supplies power to the Arduino. If you need more current than 500mA you can also power it from a wall wart.
Perfect. Thanks.
Another question for you. 
@LarryM
I have a bunch of AC powered items in the build:
x2 10A 48V PSU (dialed down for the max 42v input on the TB6600)
24v PSU (for relays, lights, fans and accessories)
VFD (for water cooled spindle)
Water pump (cooling obviously)
Vaacum cleaner (for dustboot)
I can use my IOT relay for the vacuum and water pump and that would keep them under the amp limit for the IOT.
But how many AC lines so I need to bring in and not blow a fuse? I do have an elekchicken neighbor who can install an upgrade in my fuse box. How do I calculate my need?
How much am I going to have to change your diagram for 3 power supplies? 
You need to have the voltage and current, or the power used by each device in order to calculate what the total load would be.
I was troubled with noise when all I powered my Arduino with was the USB. I could jog fine, no issues but when I hit Carve in Easel the green button would turn blue (=> USB drop-out causing a disconnect)
I solved that by feeding the Arduino 12VDC directly to its DC input socket. Used a buck converter and derated the 24V PSU line down to 12V.
I’m using 42 volts so I’ll prob use resistors.
Recommended power for the Arudino power jack is 7 to 12 volts.
To run the Arduino from the 42 volt power supply at 12 volts you would need a resistor of about 600 ohms at 1.5 watts with a heat sink ( quantity 1 for the resistor $7.58 USD.)
Problem becomes worse because the current draw by the Arduino would vary with the load and then the voltage drop required would also vary.
Not such a good idea, unless I’m misunderstanding something about your situation.
A buck voltage regulator would be a better solution, and would cost about the same as the resistor.
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I’m gonna bing that right now.
Indeed and the spec’d min./max input allowed is 6-20V.
The mainstream DC-DC step-down converters have 1,5-40V input range, so using one for a 24-36V PSU system would be good enough. For 48V a High Voltage version of the buck converters will be required.