I’m dialed into 42v as the TB6600 has a max in of 42v. Even though the supply can dial all the way up to 51v!!
Use a low cost buck converter with the 24 VDC power supply to get power to the Arduino.
I want to eliminate the 24v power supply as it requires extra space and increases the power pulled from the wall.
So I plugged in two motors with no load to quickly test how much power it pulled from the wall. And with two motors I found it pulling only 2-3.5A. Does this make sense and do I still need two power supplies? Or is the output rating what’s limiting to the motors (max 10A).
2-3.5A at 115V.
That’s 230W to 402W.
At 42VDC, that makes it drawing 5.4A to 9.5A.
And that’s with only 2 motors…
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Im saying at the wall the draw is 2-3 no load. Im trying to figure out the circuits/loads for the electrician.
Yes and your question of whether you still need 2 power supplies is why I explained it to you that yes, you still need 2 power supplies because the 2-3.5A at the wall is maxing out your power supply assuming a 400Wish power supply and that’s with only 2 motors and you’ll have 4.
2 times the 2-3 amp no load (for motors) = 4-6 amps
If you have a DeWalt router it runs at about 7 amps (inrush is higher)
If you have a vacuum cleaner for dust collection they draw about 6 amps
6 + 7 + 6 = 19 amps
Many electricians recommend keeping the load on a breaker at or below 80 percent.
A 15 amp breaker then should supply 12 amps of current. Your 19 exceeds the 12 amps.
He could put in a 20 amp breaker, but that only gives you 16 amps, still less than you need.
That is assuming that you are not planning on plugging anything else into those outlets.
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Gonna need x2 20A and a 15 for the compressor.
Better off running all 3 at 20a.
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What gauge power line to use?
20a requires at least 12 gauge (yellow romex from the big box stores). 15A uses 14 gauge (white romex). The orange is 10 gauge and I think is for 30A breakers (appliances).
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This thread will definitely go into the Inventables Hall of Fame, it there ever is one haha.
Depends on the current, but also the length of the run.
@PhilJohnson may I ask if you are still using the same GRBL settings as you posted here once?
Got my TB6600 hooked up based on your setup.
Now I am loosing massively steps 
So I wanted to try to set my dip switch settings same as yours.
The settings you posted in the file “Phils GRBL settings SEND FILE 03-02-2017”
had
$100=39.960
$101=39.900
$102=94.088
Is this still up to date?
If I am correct, these settings have to match the micro stepping setup of the TB6600.
Mine currently have
$100=26.667
$101=26.667
$102=188.976
These worked fine with the old arduino shield.
Thank you (again)!
But if I do switch these values, my work will have an incorrect size?
How can I figure out which values to take?
I am using a custom machine with GRBL Arduino and Nema23 motors.
Was hoping this “could” fix my loosing steps
Incorrect size doesn’t has to mean that you are loosing steps. Do you have calibrate your steps per mm? If your travel is inconsistent means you are loosing steps, if you always travel with the same error means you have to adjust your steps.
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Just did a test cut in the air.
The longer it is running (total cut 10 min), the less it is moving to the left side.
After the “cut” was complete and after “homing” it was 30 cm(!!!) off to the right side,
although the whole cut should be only 20 cm in width. What is going on?
Is it possible that the motor is screwed?
When being in the menu I can move left/right/up/down without any problems.
Just seems to have problems when going into two directions at the same time.
The drivers are quite hot right now.
The second “air cut” was way less off (but this time a little bit up), but I could see stuttering when moving left.
Might it be just the belt?
Yes. Same settings as yours
