Milling Bit suggestion for Quiet Cut Spindle with ER11

Hi! I have just started, so i’m really a newbie, i have the Queti Cut Spindle 400W with ER11, i want know what is the meaning of ER11 and what bit i have to buy to start? i have see that in the inventables store there are a lot of mill, but i don’t know what buy, for start i want do work like this:

https://discuss.inventables.com/t/dinosaur-and-other-animal-skeletons

or work with Plexiglas, what you suggest me to have a start of bit to work with?

Thanks

ER-11 is the collet for the quietcut spindle. In short, it is the bit holder specification. The ER-11 collet can hold a bunch of different shanks / bits, from 1/8" (which ships stock), 1/4", and 1-5mm. Assuming you’re in the US, most traditional router bits are 1/4", where Dremel bits are 1/8".

As for bits, everyone has their favorites - A good thread is here.

@EricMccord @AngusMcleod Thank you very much :slight_smile: Now i understand, so what type of bit did you suggest me for a work like that i mention above?

I want make also work like this:

I know that is make with laser cut, but i think i make have a very similar work also with the quiet cut spindle, so what you suggest me for these jobs?

Below is a link to one milling bit that I have had great success with. I’ve used this bit to cut aluminum, acrylic and many other materials with great results. http://www.mcmaster.com/#4557a143/=12btgg2

Hi,

The 400w spindle comes with a 1/8" collet already. We do sell other sizes here:

Here is a support article that should help you choose milling bits:
https://inventables.desk.com/customer/portal/articles/2412278?b_id=9562&t=0

In a lot of cases, several different bits will technically work for the application. Acrylic is a very brittle plastic.

Here is some highlights of that post that might help:

Up-Cut, Down-Cut, and Compression
The cutting style of a milling bit identifies which way the material chips are removed from your project, in addition to which side of the cut surface is smoothed.

Up-cut bits expel the cut material upward and smooths the bottom of the cut pass. It pulls heat away from the bit, and is a good choice for plastics, metals, or other materials that are prone to melting or burning. However, because of the bit’s design and upward-pulling motion, it can fight the clamping system you use with your material, especially if your material is thin.

Down-cut bits push the chips downward (towards the material). This cutting style is prone to melting or burning your material, especially if your job requires many passes. The benefit to this style of bit is that, by pressing down against the material, it can help thin materials remain secured to your cutting surface. Additionally, the top edges of your cuts will be smoother than if you use an up-cut bit.

https://www.inventables.com/technologies/solid-carbide-downcut-fish-tail-spiral-bits

Compression bits have a primarily “neutral” cutting action and smooths both the top and bottom edge of the cut pass. This is achieved by the lower part of the bit utilizing the up-cut style, and the upper part of the bit utilizing the down-cut style. As a result, these bits are recommended primarily for thicker materials which will be cut through entirely. If your project requires shallow cuts, it may not be the best choice because only the bottom (up-cut) portion of the bit will be used, and the top (down-cut) portion of the bit will not be used to finish the smoothing.

Flutes
Flutes are the cutting edges on a bit. Fluted bits get their names based on the number of flutes present on the bottom of the bit (for instance, our 2-flute bits all have two cutting edges).

Generally speaking, more flutes on an end mill means a smoother edge finish. More flutes also means there is a smaller surface area to eject cut chips away from your stock material. This means you will need to use a slower feed rate, so the bit has time to properly dispose of the cut materials. By using fewer flutes, you can remove material quicker but will have rougher edges on your cuts.

Certain materials require you to remove material faster than others. For instance, a soft plastic like HDPE will melt if the chips are not expelled from the bit quickly enough. You will want to use a single or 2-flute end mill for a material this soft. For harder materials less prone to melting, you can use more flutes: just be careful with your cut depth, so you don’t break the bit by trying to carve too deeply into a hard material.

Fishtail Bits, Ballnose Bits, and Speciality Bits
The tip of a milling bit helps determine its purpose. Fishtail bits produce a flat surface at the bottom of your cut. Ballnose bits create a rounded bottom of your cut. These bits are ideal for 3D contouring or stepped layers, as the rounded tip reduces ridged edges in consecutive passes.

We also sell a variety of bits designed for specific applications. V bits, or V-Carve bits, create a pass shaped like a “V” and are commonly use for detailed engraving or signs. We also sell bits designed for fine-details, engraving, or working with PCB.

For this, cutting sheets of material like plywood or MDF, I recommend a downcut bit.
The bit presses down as it cuts (as opposed to lifting up as standard drills and end mills do) This will help prevent the little tares that are common when cutting plywood, or the chipping that occurs when cutting MDF.

My 1/4" downcut from the local hardware store bit is my most used bit. :slight_smile:

However, to do dovetails like in the picture you have to add “dogbones” to the inside corners. These are a little extra cuts to allow the corner of the matching part to fit. As a round bit can’t cut a square hole.
The smaller the bit, the less extra space made by the dogbone. So a 1/8" downcut bit is nice for this.
Here is an example: Continuing the discussion from Tiki Dice Tower