Need help Broken screw

I did a quick search but couldn’t find anything. While installing the limit switch on the x axis the screw broke off in the hole. I don’t think they were tapped correctly the second screw didn’t want to go in either i had to re tap it. Anyway the screw went in far enough to not come ut the other side so their is nothing to grad a hold of to get it out. I tried drilling it out but its such a small bit that I’m not getting anywhere. Any ideas or suggestions?

Only use one screw and some glue, that should hold it

Ugh that sucks.
Maybe an “easy out” bit? (this is a lie they are a pain in the a$$)
They should have them at your local automotive supply.

You might be able to use a tiny machine screw on the bottom side (so tightening it backs the broken screw out) like an easy out bit. If you can drill enough of a divot in the broken screw bottom for a machine screw to get a bite into it?

Thanks ill try the glue. I might have my axis mixed up. If your looking at the machine dead on its the plate to the left that holds the bar that has the chrome “X-Carve” on it.

The problem is they powder coat the part after tapping the holes I had to run the screws in and out a couple times in small increments to get them in. It’s an idea but back When I did a lot of r/c model plane and car stuff we used to glue servos in place with “shoegoo” it has just enough give where if won’t break off if bumped hard and u can pry it off with a putty knife , I once glued a small gas engine in the nose of a plane after the motor mounts broke from a hard landing flew the plane for a couple years like that then when I decided to fix it, it came right out with a putty knife. Just a small bit of redneck enginuity for the forums!!

The screws were the same in my kit just the others use a tiny locknut …

Yes but it’s the same screw my holes had powder coating in them …

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Yea, there’s a few little things they need to mention in the instructions , writing instructions is really difficult though… the one thing I wish inventables would do actually the 2 things I wish they would do is use socket cap head screws instead of button head , and send at least 1 extra screw for each type … I know it is a large cost when it’s all added up but we as the end user are paying slot for a “hobby”. I don’t know about you guys but the only extra part I have is one threaded insert and I bet it’s because I just left it out of the board …

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I’ll second the socket cap screws. The heads don’t take up much more room and there isn’t anywhere on the X-Carve that requires a low clearance that button caps offer. The larger hex key makes it much more difficult to strip the head out.

If you’re having trouble extracting a button head because the head stripped out, cut a slot in it with a dremel and thin cutoff wheel. This saved us a lot of headaches when my daughter was in highschool robotics.

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Since the holes aren’t actually tapped the screw is being held in by powder coating can you just use a small punch or even a nail to hit it out from the backside. Also I’ll second the Drexel cut off method works better than any screw remover I’ve ever used.


As a life-long mechanic I can not believe that this conversation is even happening. It is like a universe in which someone has never had to fix something that broke? by some of the comments my head is still spinning. If you break something (you put to much pressure, wrong alignment, failed to pay attention to detail.) then you need to fix it. don’t pass blame on to the machine (inanimate object, did not do it to you.) or the supply chain. they sent you what you need. If you need more bolts, screws, plates then own your mistake and fix it. no problem asking for help or advise but to place blame elsewhere? “rant over” just could not believe where this post went.

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Well Ken , I as well have been a mechanic for 15 plus years myself and from experience can say that I prefer socket head cap screws over button head screws , and I honestly think it is a “small” money saving design flaw to use button head screws on anything that has to be tightened down with a hand held standard “L” shaped Allen wrench not only because the screw head fails but because in most cases the wrench slips out because you can’t get proper clearance for the use of a t-handle, furthermore I think it is only good practice to provide at least a couple extra screws mainly due to the fact that they could have defects from the factory I actually have 2 button head screws in my kit that the starting threads are marred causing the nuts not to even start , and I honestly think if I spend over 1000$ on a “hobby” I should not have to run to the local hardware store for a 23 cent screw… I’m sure I’m not the only one who has assembled furniture or something else that has come with screws and not found that the manufacturer provided a couple spares, I have a drawer full myself, unfortunately no m5 8 …

I agree with that Phil, I think as much as we see about “locktite” and loose screws, larger headed bolts is an improvement that should be embraced by inventables and the community, within the first week of assembling my kit I opted to spend the extra cash 30-35$ to replace any button head screw with a socket cap to ensure I have it as tight as possible and with the use of locktite , if I ever have to remove it I can rest assured I wont strip the head out trying and if i do ! I can grab it with a pair of vice grips and remove it … I just think with the nature of this type of product the best fasteners should be used and if not provide a spare…

I never said do not point out issues, what I could not believe was the comments that placed blame on not sending extra parts (like they know what parts you are going to break) or blanket send one extra of everything? I was just saying some of the post were like (why should I take responsibility doesn’t this happen to everyone.) you make a mistake own it, fix it, learn from it, and actually try not to do it again. I am all for pointing out mistakes and letting other learn from them but that is not where this went.

I do t understand how you find a problem with me saying “send extra screws” there’s little baggies with say 10 socket head screws that can be defective or damaged in sure they are Chinese made , instead of 10 add one more make it 11 so at 2 am when someone is assembling there machine and find a screw that is messed up , or if they strip a crappy button head out , they can just say ohh look there’s an extra “2cent” screw in the bag so that I can continue , I never once said anything about sending extra “parts” I don’t consider a screw a “part” it’s a screw to assemble the parts , it’s common “good” practice to supply a spare or extra sometime , I’m sure you have shirts and other clothing with an extra button sewn in somewhere for when you damage or loose one, that way you can just swap it out , and think to yourself , "boy am I glad I got this brand " instead of brand x that doesn’t provide me a simple 2cent button!!! No one is not “owning” up to their mistakes here, I never broke or lost any of my screws I had a couple that were defective , now is that up to me to own up too? Or should the manufacturer send extras? I had to drive 15 miles to go get a couple screws because I do live in a rural area. Which is fine but , should I have too after spending over 1k on a machine… I personally don’t think so …

WOW. I am so sorry to see how this is going. sorry to have pointed out it was not the equipment’s fault or any other inanimate object. So I will go sit quietly in the corner and try not to discourage anyone out of their safe space.

Well I don’t even know you , but you sure did approach this thread in a very condescending manner as if to imply that no one is willing to own up to their mistakes when mistakes are made, the gentleman who started this post merely had broken a screw off into a hole that is improperly tapped or drilled or whatever , we are not aware of his technical or mechanical know how , skill or knowledge , but to say that he’s not owning up to his mistakes is a bit harsh, I simply added in that extra screws would be nice , and that it would also be nice to get a higher quality screw in place of the less stout button head screws. Again I don’t know you nor do I know your engineering level or skill but I do know that calling someone out for not owning up to a mistake because someone else said that they think the screws are junk is a bit rude … as far as I’m concerned it’s my money and if I feel the screws I payed for are junk I should be able to say that without being told I don’t own up to my mistakes … I can tell you I for sure own up to the mistake of commenting on this post , I hope everyone gets there issues resolved here on out on their own because asking for help just gets a condiscending remark …

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I was not commenting on the OP as he just asked for help. As you can see I was commenting on “some of the comments” I truly believe that Inventables sells an incredible product and has great support for that product. If you get something that was not correct or defective I have seen over and over where they made it right. I just could not understand “some of the comments” where it was every fault but their own. but since you want to make this a long discussion on how you feel about the product I think we can all see that you believe what you got was substandard or “Junk” I have a complete different opinion as I believe that they provide a great product and support for that product. I can say that for under $2000.00 I am very happy with what I received and what I built.

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And I hope that others can also be happy with this product but to do so they need to understand that it is what it is, Just a machine nothing more nothing less.

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To remove those small screws I would do it this way.
Get the device as level as possible so you can drill down.
Get a good quality drill and make sure your bit does not wobble. (A drill press is handy for this and works better)
if you do not have a drill press or high quality tools you can get a drill guide.

you will want to get a drill that will drill out the center of the screw. It will create a pocket.
Clean out the hole of any metal debris. (Very important)
An easy out is best

but if you do not have one you can use an existing screw and shape it with a grinder/dremel
Then you can use an existing screw and taper it to fit into that pocket with some glue. Must be strong stuff too.
Then you use a lube on the back side of the screw to lubricate the threads. (Gunk or wd40)
let the lube sit and do its job.
Then take and carefully turn the screw. use a blunt object to tap the back side. This help loosen the screw. (Not always but sometimes it needs a tap to knock it loose.)
Not always full proof but works in a pinch.

If this does not work then you will have to drill it out completely.
If there is a machine shop I would take it there and have a machinist get it removed. They usually have very precise tools and can help.

Good luck.