Hey everyone, posted a video that has been talked about a lot in the forum. Changing brushes on the DeWalt 611
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Hello!
My name is Gabriel, I am from Romania and I want to tell you that your works are great!
I intend to buy an X-carve as soon as possibleâŚ
Meanwhile, I already start working with EASEL.
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Thank you very much
Phil,
Thanks for the tutorial. Being totally new to CNC, I greatly appreciate your videos. I like to try and mimic your projects to better help me understand easel, and the X-carve. Seeing this tutorial just makes me more comfortable in doing repairs to brushes vs just going and buy-in new router. haha
Thanks again.
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Thank you. Glad it helped you. Hopefully you subscribed. Iâve got more planned
Yes I have. I enjoy seeing more. I am not sure if you have any info on Feeds and Speeds? I have been searching around, trying to find out more about it. Currently been using the Easel defaults, but one project I recently did took 8hrs to complete. So I am thinking there is surely a better way to cut some time down, but at same time not create other issues.
How to square your XCarve
A lot of people ask about this
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method is good, slight error in labeling⌠the cross axes as labeled should be AD, CB, not AD, CD
Oooops missed that. Thatâs what happens when you rush. Method works well though. Thanks
Hello everyone. I posted a video on using image trace vs Inkscape to prepare a color logo to carve. I give step by step process. Hope this will help some folks out there
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Making a wooden sword.
Fun project for my sons school
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Some people were asking me to share the link on making the knobs. I put it in the description on the video for easy access. Hope this helps
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Well done Phillip. I hadnât even considered making custom knobs until I watched this video. Filing this one away as I know it will come in handy.
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With the drill feature added now I put that into the project and have everything separated into separate work pieces
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Here is a video to test out the new DRILL FEATURE.
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Hey Phillip, the reason youâre burning your tool and stock is because your feed/rev is too low.
Assuming youâre cutting at your lowest RPMs then 12/16000=0.00075in/rev. Moving slow while spinning fast you end up with your bit rubbing instead of cutting. Slowing down your plunge rate will make your feed/rev even lower and rub and burn even more. Itâs the equivalent of having a very low chipload while milling.
A drill press spins at low 1000s and even 100s of RPMs. Compare this to the lowest setting of the Dewalt 611 at 16000RPMs. This is to be expected from a high spin router.
So if you cannot decrease the revs your only cure to bring your feed/rev up is increasing the feed (plunge). However, doing that on a hobby CNC which lacks the rigidity of a drill press youâre limited by the highest load the cut can produce before the machine starts flexing. In practice this means you might be able to drill soft materials and experiment to find a safe setting (if possible at all) with harder ones.
Try using a drill bit, at your lowest RPMs and start increasing the plunge rate gradually. If you hear your machine struggling, back off. If you still get burns at that point, the material youâre trying to drill is too hard for your (too high spinning) machine.
Btw, there are spindles out there with a low RPM range of 3000 or less.
UPDATE:
I forgot to mention that the same way a smaller diameter endmill is designed for less chipload, a smaller diameter drill bit can work with lower feed/rev. So, this gives you a third factor to explore and possible expand your limits.
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Excellent. Thank you very much! Iâll try it
I agree with Elias regarding plunge rate and drill bit.
Keep in mind Easel has the default max rates in GRBL very conservative. I donât think it plunge any faster than 19 in/min regardless of your entry unless you revise your settings. I have increased mine 100% with no issues so far.
Also I donât think a down cut is ideal for drilling, there is no path for evacuating chips and you are compressing them into the bottom of the hole. Likely cause of heat. The resin in the material likely did not help either.
The feature is nice but for any thing larger than 1/16th I would use fill cut (pocket) full depth with smaller bit.
Example 1/4" hole I would do with an 1/8" bit and I think it would be quicker than the pecking.
Keep up the good work presenting the Easel features.
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You are exactly right. An uncut bit would definitely help. You are right about the plunge rate and burning at the bottom of the hole. The idea about using a smaller bit and a pocket may be the best way to go
