Thanks, Phil.
Those will do nicely.
Larry
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depends on the card board your are cutting some cardboard box material is really thick like the 200lbs test material and the corrugated material can cause uses sometimes it will burn before it will cut all the way through especially if your are using a low power laser and slow cutting speeds
a drag knife works well if you use a vac table to hold it down
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Phil,
The V-Carve tool setup for the J-Tech Laser works quite well (Iāve got the 2.8w). Using the quick etching (?) selection in V-Carve Desktop and select the hatch option (0 degrees) instead of the offset works great. I have experimented with the PicLaser software, but since it isnāt PicEngrave Pro, itās way slower. Using vectors for a logo I was engraving, the V-Carve setup took about 22 minutes, the PicLaser only solution was about 2 hours.
Will also be looking into the PEP software, have downloaded the demo, but havenāt had a chance to play with it yet.
Don
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I have a HPC 80 watt laser here in the U.K. I have engraved and cut a lot of acrylic. Made a lot of personalised keyrings from clear acrylic.
Iām bettin: thatās not a laser diode.
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Lol, you won the bet. Co2. 4 foot by 3 foot bed. Will cut up to 13 mm ply.
There are current limiting jumpers on the laser control board and a variable pot for fine tuning.
That makes my eyes itch just thinking about it.
There is a hole in the shield where the beam is going through.
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The various filters and goggles for laser eye protection are rated for different wavelengths of laser light and also for Optical Density (OD).
The devices are also rated for visible light transmission.
The Jtech laser filters have an OD of OD 4+
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No. I would read the recommendations on the Jtech web site, or in the manual that they have for the 2.8W unit. Most laser diodes are specād at ideal conditions, which donāt exist in the real world.
Running at full power reduces the life of the laser unless you have some serious cooling of the diode.
Temperature changes also change the frequency of the laser light, slightly.
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You totally made me think of Real Genus!
https://incontiguousbrick.files.wordpress.com/2007/07/real_genius_laser_21.jpg
ā¦I have to go watch it again now.
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Iāll make some popcorn!
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Once you apply power you need to press the reset button. Itās a safety feature to prevent the laser from coming back on after a power failure is restored.
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Itās even keyed? Cool!
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Thanks for the .STL files.
@RobertCanning
My 3D printer is slow, but for 4.5 hours of print time and $3.00 in material costs:
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Check the switch on the controller board to see if it is in the CW position.
I donāt have the laser yet, just getting ready.
CW is continuous wave, ie always on.
Use TTL for computer control.
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I will give a bit of useless input here. I have used a huge range of computers with the laser from old to new. at the low end is a old as dirt toughbook from a police car it takes forever to boot and just barely runs xp about useless surfing the web it can send 9+ million lines of code at 175ipm on the xcarve no issue. Then there is the alienware mx15 gaming laptop older but still rocks run the same code but only @150ipm and donāt dare open a thing or it lags sending code. Even some of the computers had almost the same spec with vastly different results. My conclusion albeit pulled from my backside could the issue be different usb controllers or firmware combinations. The old toughbook is hit on ram and cpu just running picsender and firefox but yes no lag in sending code.
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Donāt have that kind of laser but your power looks high
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