I’m here in IL… Just outside of Chicago and have called two metal suppliers that have the 6061 Aluminum Plate. For your dimensions I have been quoted $220.63 and $225.00.
Speedy Metals is $111.80 and another $30.93 for shipping.
When I ask the IL people why it’s over $100 more for the same thing - the don’t know. Crazy!
Noticed that they had a number for Rockford, IL which is about 1.5hrs from me…still far, but not crazy given I drive almost an hour into S. Chicago each morning…
So I called, and they will pick up the plate Monday and I can get it Tue. or Wed. $108.25 total!
Also got my $7 T-Rails ordered, some screws and extrusions! I’ll be ready to get this thing rolling!
I need to start creating some things and not just creating things that are upgrades to my machine! My better half just doesn’t get it. Lol - but it’s so much fun!
It’s kinda like my woodshop, after 20+ years it’s still not “done” and never will be. half the fun of having such a workspace is working on the workspace, If that makes any sense.
Starting mine now.
Hello Phil can you take a quick look at this and see what else im missing and answer ?? on it please
Im to order everything and make simple for other to follow as well
Thank you Phils wasterboard Material.xlsx (9.7 KB)
Frank - while ordering from Amazon, it wouldn’t hurt to add in some of the T-nuts that you can insert after assembly: https://www.amazon.com/TOPINSTOCK-European-Aluminum-Extrusions-Thread/dp/B01FOC6A8E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478036887&sr=8-1&keywords=5mm+tnuts I have found them helpful on a couple occasions. not needed but they seem to ward off frustration 
i have these on the list https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018Y7NK8O/ref=biss_dp_t_asn are they not the same ?
thanks Phil I place the order from speedy metal they were a lot cheaper then local vendors lol
Frank - those are great t-nuts - but if forget to put them into the slots, sometimes it can be a frustrating and daunting task to remove enough stuff to access the slot where they need to be. The ones I linked to allow you to insert the t-nut into the slot anywhere not just from the ends of the slots.
jer
quick question. their is no space between t track and the little brackets?
ok thanks, im about to start taping the holes lol the fun part
I’m guessing that this is a LOT more rigid, and solves a lot of the flex related issues on the x-carve…
A few questions:
1.) What are you using to measure?
2.) How are you marking the aluminum plate(with what)?
3.) Why are you tapping the aluminum plate instead of sampling drilling and using T-slot insertion nuts?
I promise that I’m not attempting to “sharpshoot”, I am simply attempting to gain clear understanding before any embarkation. 
Interesting. I did pretty much the same thing but without the aluminum.
I attached my X-carve to a piece of 4x4 MDF and then put the T-slots on the MDF. This gave me a little additional Z-clearance since I have the original Z axis.
Personally, I undersized my table a little and ran the T-slots the other direction. Then, I machine the wasteboard and attach a strip on the side of the machine so I have a hard stop to put material on - similar to your corner brace. Since I got into doing a few projects larger than my machine, this makes indexing a lot easier. If I was doing only projects the size of the table, your approach seems much more sensible.
Hope you like it. The shopfox clamps are the best things I’ve found! I only do 1/2" and thicker material, though.
What I meant by marking was to align the tapped holes foe T-nut placement underneath.
I must be misunderstanding, is there no extrusion frame beneath the plate?
There are through holes for T nuts in the extrusion base. Then tapped holes for the Tslot’s and MDF.
Oh ok…
So then an additional set (seperate from the tapped holes) for the cross frame extrusions beneath?
So, when making the holes for the extrusions, how did you mark the aluminum plate to ensure the lines would be straight?
Did you just use a T-square and pencil?
He must mean caliper. 
