and a tap. I used a tap.
And Bacardi. As fuel.
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Love the spinner! Can you make the section between the cloverleafs match the radius of the engraved circle? It looks like there are flat sides. I think making the sandwich layers the exact same radius would give it an even more clean look to an already great designâŚ
They are now. This was a prototype. Also, the two caps sit proud of the clover for reliable table top spins. Plus the radius is a tad smaller. Prototyping is way more fun than productionâŚ
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Nice work man!
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first thought: is that Wall-E? 
Thereâs one on our Facebook page scroll down a bit. Turn your volume down. You can also search Phat Boy spinner or Steampunk Spinners on Youtube - a bunch of people have posted videos:
Here is a review from Tuskaloosa Tactical (Iâm sure theyâll be YUGE someday):
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About 20 prototypes. I carved .25" brass on one side to make the âaxleâ and thin the cap out into a circle about .125" larger in diameter than the final cap. I used a .125" end mill to drill into the center for the screw hole. I used two tabs on opposite sides. Then, cut the part out leaving LOTS of tab material attached. You can use these tabs to grip the cap in vice grips without damaging the perimeter. in vice grips, tap the hole with an m5 tap. Remove from vice grips. screw a lock nut onto an M5 rod with just enough thread sticking out to screw into your cap. Chuck the rod into a drill. Bring your drill and cap to your belt sander. Turn belt sander on and with your drill on high, grind away the tabs and make your cap perfectly round on the belt sander. Constantly measure your diameter with a micrometer until you are within .02" or so of desired diameter. Keep it chucked in your drill, and with 400 grit sand paper, sand the top and sides of your bearing. Then move to 800 grit. Then 2000 grit. It should be shiny. Also do the underside of the cap.
Measure your diameter. Mill a pocket in MDF to receive your cap with the axle facing down. The pocket needs to be tight enough to secure your material. Your machine needs to stay on so your homing does not change. Pound your cap into the pocket using a piece of wood over the cap and a hammer. Recess the top of the cap. Pry out cap and put screw in, chuck into your drill. Sand the recess flat using process above. Pound back into your pocket (cnc machine still left on). Using an etching bit jog to a part of your etching and lower your bit until you hear it make contact. Back off .005". Zero your bit. Etch at .001" per pass to a depth of .002". Check your work. I usually re-zero z .002" deeper and then etch the design agiain. Pry it out. Chuck it, polish it with 800 and 2000 again being careful not to eliminate your etching. Repeat with second cap. Insert m5 grub screw with blue loctite in one cap. You now have male and female. Screw together to make sure axel is smooth. The axel consists of a part that slides into the center of your bearing and a âshoulderâ that is .002" that meets the inside race of the bearing to keeep teh cap just slightly elevated from the rest of the bearing to facilitate movement.
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All I have to say is YUGE!
I built a sign for my computer repair biz. I love it,
I used tubing and bolts to create stand offs and motherboards as the background.
https://youtu.be/YiEWO40yzdo here is a video of it being put together
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I would have to say my first project was my favorite and still my best build! Turned my logo into a sign and it turned out amazing! I learned a whole lot from it and got the chance to not only spend a whole lot of time designing it and carving it but a ton of time finishing it with paint, and the different gradients and goops etcâŚ
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That is sooooooo slick. Did you paint it?
Yes and no! I am no artist so I painted the whole thing light green and then got a vinyl of all of the blobs and outline and placed it on then painted dark green and peeled the vinyl off to reveal the lighter color. Then proceeded to attempt to fade the two colors into each other. Was my first time messing around with craft paint but I find it turned out great! I was going to go the extra mile and add a proximity sensor so it would turn on when someone walked bear it but opted to keep it simple and make it so all of the parts are contained into the sign. So I can connect and disconnect the 12v back easily
Definitely not my worse auto-correct fail! 
You would actually be surprised about that. My cousin recently had a run in with a bear in his house on his way home from work. There have been tons of bears in town lately!
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Made with a laser and hand tools, but it wouldâve been an XCarve if I had room for one:
(Warning: youâll probably cry)
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