Inventables Community Forum

Relay control box

So I plan on building a relay control box to automatically control the dewalt 611 as well as manually switching it off and on. I purchased the solid state relay from inventables. I wanted to test its functionality before my machine is fully built so I tried 2 different dc power supplies both with the same result the first was a 5 v .500 ma when I power the relay I get a red led light but when I test the high voltage circuit I find that is is not closed as would normally be expected , I got the same result with a 12v 1ma power supply. Does anyone here have experience with this relay I can’t make sense of the data sheet provided by inventables. https://www.inventables.com/technologies/solid-state-relay

How did you check to see if the relay was closed? It’s not a mechanical relay, you can’t just check for continuity with an ohmmeter.

The Inventables relay should turn on with a 50ma current. So the 5 volt 500ma should do nicely.

I bought the IOT relay and it works perfectly.
it controls both my router and the dust collector

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Ok so I won’t see continuity between the high voltage circuit when it is actuated? I’m used to mechanical relays , so my next test will be to wire up a 110v light bulb breaking the hot wire with the relay, so when the D.C. Voltage is applied I should get a light to turn on. I won’t be using the power adapter permanently I’m going to hook into the pins on the x controller for the D.C. Spindle control.

Yea I thought about that option but I want to make a control panel with controls for the spindle, dust collection, and lighting in my enclosure. I want to be able to have automatic and manual controls.

The PWM signal is coming directly from the ATmega328P. This device can only drive 40ma from an I/O pin so it will not turn the relay full on by itself. If you want to use that signal then you will need some external components to make it reliable. There is a simple transistor circuit that will do the trick.

That’s why many use the IoT relay as it has the transistor circuit built in and doesn’t require external components.

Where can I find that transistor circuit I wouldn’t even know what to search I’m sure I could build it.

Should I have ordered this instead ? ;(

https://www.inventables.com/technologies/isolated-relay-circuit

Here is the circuit I use in my controller.

The supply voltage can vary based on what you have available as long as it does not exceed the ratings for the 2N3904, 2N3906 and the SSR input.

Remember that you have to set the appropriate spindle speed to get a 100 percent PWM signal to turn your relay on full.

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The Isolated Relay is for low current devices. You are better off with the SSR. It can control more power.

That hookup method cannot supply enough current to turn the relay on enough to deliver full power… The PWM signal from the X-controller cannot deliver enough current to turn fully on, on many of the SSRs including the one in the picture.

Just got my new X-Controller up and running yesterday and it works fine with the setup shown in B.F.'s post. I have the exact same relay connected to the Spindle(PWM) lug.

@RayMacke

Didn’t say it wouldn’t work. Said you wouldn’t get full power.

If you’re happy with it, go for it.

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I think is has to do with the current not voltage , I’m going to do some testing when mine arrives tomorrow, if it draws to much current from the controller it could short burn out the circuit im guessing.

Which terminals do you use?

@FabianSubia If you can return the SSR, buy the IOT relay instead.

As for the terminals, you will hook up IOT relay to the 0-10V and set your spindle speed to the max in the software.
A DIY SSR relay needs a transistor as previously mentioned. That is also hooked up to the 0-10V.

Lol so many mixed answers , I have both items on order I want to build a custom control box with manual override switches and lighting control is the only reason I wanted to just use the ssr , I could always disassemble the case of the iot and wire up some regular outlets on the outside of my control box.

There is a 0-10vdc output on the X-controller that follows the PWM signal (it’s actually derived from the PWM signal) so you have to do the max rpm value to get the full 10 volts. Problem there is that the OP amp they use can deliver 30ma - 40ma. If you draw more current than that then you can’t get the full 10 volts.

Same problem as the ATmega328P. Current draw from a single ATmega328P I/O pin should not exceed 40ma.

Some of the SSRs (like the one Inventables sells) are rated at 50ma on the input signal. Doesn’t mean that they all pull the full 50ma, but if it gets less you may have a situation where the full A/C cycle is not used.

The IoT relay has circuitry on the input so that it doesn’t load down the source of the control signal. It works well as is.

B.F.'s pic worked just fine for me. Within Easel I selected the Bosh Colt router and it works just fine (or so I believe).

I don’t know what the M3 Sxxxx setting is in Easel, I’m assuming that the “BC” sets it pretty high.