Anyone going to be attempting to use this trim router? I currently own one and was considering using it if I deemed it was necessary to upgrade later on. It is a variable speed router so was wondering if anyone else had ideas on how to tap into that feature of the router itself to use with the cut software.
I’m not sure on the physical size, but it may be able to fit in one of the adapters they sell here for the Bosh router, or the yet to be officially released one for the Dewalt. If not you might look at making your own bracket. As far as variable speed goes you would need something like a Super PID, do a search and I’m sure you will find some info. I Know Inventables is using one on a shop machine currently. I don’t remember if it can be tied into Easl, or if they are using another program with it. The other option is just make sure the Variable speed dial is accessible and just manually change it per different material/ job.
I have that same router, and had planned on using it in a DIY CNC rig that I never quite finished. The stumbling block with the 2401 and any existing mounting options is that height adjustment jack screw - the whole track for it is molded right into the body, so it can’t just slide nicely into a cylindrical mount.
I do have a nice set of machined Delrin clamps for mine that were made for that DIY machine. I’ve been trying to decide if trying to mate them to the X-carve’s Z carriage is worth the effort, or if I should use them as a template to make a purpose-built mount…or if just buying a new router that already has a mounting solution would be the way to go.
I also have one that I am thinking of using until I build a custom spindle that has a scaled down R8 style collet and draw barl Then I would build scaled down Tormach tool system style tool holders in ER16 and 1/4" drill chucks.
I’ll build a custom clamp to hold the trim router.
Dragging this thread back up from the depths - my X-Carve is now sporting the 2401 router. I’ll post some more pictures/info tomorrow, but just as a quick teaser, I’m blasting through a poplar board right now at .040" depth of cut, 100 inches per minute at the lowest RPM (~20,000). It’s not even breaking a sweat…you can hear the bit in the wood, of course, but the router’s motor barely even changes pitch when it’s cutting.
I think it’s almost time to see how fast I can cut aluminum before I break a bit or twist the machine in half.
As they say on a lot of other forums. No pictures it didn’t happen The only problem with using a trim router is tooling and tool changes on a multi tool job.
I do a lot of projects that require more than one tool so the 2400 is just a stop gape till I can build a draw bar spindle.
Oh, it happened all right.
That’s actually the second pass out of three. Roughing with a flat end mill, the video shows the finish pass with a ball nose, and then a final cut-out pass with the flat bit. I haven’t had any problems doing tool changes so far, although a draw bar setup sure would be cool to have.
Forgot to add - the clamps look all fuzzy because I was using what was probably a 1.6 flute flat end mill LOL…one of the flutes had a big chunk missing on the end, and I didn’t realize it until it was too late. The ball nose didn’t have any trouble making things right, as you can see.
Just another quick note - I’m nearly finished designing a set of one-piece clamps to hold the R2401. The ones I’m using are two-piece, and while they work OK, it’s hard to get them tightened equally. That makes it difficult to keep the router and bit aligned correctly to the table. The new clamps should Just Work™ with a minimum of fuss. I need to tweak a couple of dimensions and cut out one more set…that should be the final version, and I’ll post the Easel file as soon as I’m satisfied.
I watched your video and I do not understand why the tool is traveling in a diagonal direction and dipping into the slot every time it gets to one. seem like a giant waste of time.
I’ve cut hold down clamps but smaller and in aluminum that when I profile them the tool path goes around the clamp with tabs to keep them from jamming when the final cut is taken. I also leave .01" on the roughing pass and remove that with much larger DOC for the finish pass.
I can change that finish pass angle in Cut3D, but honestly, the whole process goes fast enough to where I don’t really mess with it. It’s the only software I have that I (a) really know how to use with some fluency, and (b) can natively import files from the 15 year old copy of Lightwave 3D that I still use to whip up quick designs like that.
For anyone that might be interested, here’s the one-piece clamp design I came up with:
It’ll be up to the end user to figure out how they want to attach it to the Z plate. I plan to drill/tap some holes that will line up with the existing Inventables spindle mounting plate for my setup initially…but I’m also working on a very very modified Z-axis with an anti-backlash nut, so things will eventually change.
Looks great! I was looking at this router as well for my X-Carve and I was wondering if anyone could tell me that diameter of the body.
I designed my mount at 61,36mm have not made it yet.
I have had the ridgid router for a couple years at least. It’s a good router. I didn’t want to mess with trying to make a mount that didn’t quite fit right, so I just bought the Dewalt 611 to go in the X-carve. I will still have use for a trim router, and I won’t want to remove it often from the X-carve, so I needed another one anyway.
Has anyone attempted to use the Dewalt mount and a shim to mount the Ridgid?
i ordered the dewalt 611 mount just to see if anything could be done with my rigid trim router. The rectangle area that sticks out with the height adjustment screw stops the rigid router from fitting in. You could possibly pry the mount open slightly or modify the router but I just decided to order the 611 off amazon for $118. Will be going across the boarder to pick it up on Tuesday. Tomorrow when I get home I’ll post a picture of the rigid against the dewalt mount.
Bit of a change of attitude toward this router on my end.
If I hadn’t already had a set of clamps for my 2401, I don’t think I would have even considered trying to mount it to my machine. On the upside…I already had a set of clamps, so I saved myself the extra money on a router upgrade when I burned out my second DC spindle.
Even though I have it mounted and it cuts OK, I’m still going to swap over to the DeWalt and probably a SuperPID for speed control once I have the extra dough lying around. Changing bits on this is a pain, adapting anything like dust collection or even the small air deflector I made is a pain, keeping my current kludged mounting method square to the table is a pain, and having a minimum of 20,000 RPM is definitely a pain on more delicate materials. By the time I address all of this to my satisfaction, I’m pretty sure I’ll just wish I went with the DeWalt. So I’m going to.
It’s been a good stop-gap, but after spending some time using mine, I don’t think the 2401 is the best permanent spindle solution unless you’re really willing to futz around with stuff.
Hmmm that is an issue! I wish the Dewalt 611 was only $118 here! The cheapest and can find it is for $250 got to love what the Canadian Dollar is at right now!
I’m in Canada myself. Basically I could only find the 611 at lowes and it was $250 for the plunge kit. I live pretty close to the border so just got it shipped to a PO box and went across and picked it up. Wanted to use the rigid for weight reasons along with already owning it. Just figured I’d probably save a headache and just go for the norm.
Wow, that’s…that’s akin to highway robbery. I’m sorry you guys have to deal with that kind of pricing.