Thanks Alan!
As the weather has warmed up a bit, I decided to venture into the shed to make a start on the X-Carve table.
It will be made from 70x35 pine with a 1200x1200 torsion box top. Should keep me busy for a few days. Iāve already painted out a small shed (3x3 metres) where the X-Carve will live along with a 6040 CNC router.
Construction on the X-Carve happens at night.
Geoff
What is a good working height for a work surface?
Usually it is just above your thumb nail if you are standing with your arms down by your side, but if you have a desk that a laptop will go on then you may want to match it up with he height of said desk.
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Depends how tall you are and whether you like to work standing up. 
Iāve made all my benches with a height of 935mm. Iām 190cm tall.
mm/cmā¦wha???
The 1000mm xcarve is 3 feetā¦ Ish. So he makes his tables about 2 feet 11 inches. And he is about 5 foot 10ā¦ If my midnight math is guesstimating correctly.
In US measurements then, 36.8 inches for the benchtop, 6ā 3" for me 
Yay for metric!! Fight the man! Although you probably donāt have to since Iām assuming you live in a metric country. Not like Canada where we are too polite to say no to the US and continue using both!
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Unless Iām from the US or Burma, then itās a metric country 
Itās Australia by the way.
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Iām in US, but for presize measurement, I always use metric as well. No fail. All straight math. Ones, tens and hundereds.
Iāve been busy with other life tasks lately, but I did snap a few photos of my stand once I reached a decent stopping point. Iāve added one of the two missing doors on the left side that swings up to act as a keyboard shelf. the rear section on the left will be for a dedicated shop vac for the DWP611 when I get that running with a dust shoe.
The stand is the standard Iāve established in my shop for fixtures: 4 box jointed posts of birch ply with a birch frame. cedar trim where applicable, such as around the table top, around the drawers, etc.
The top is a MDF torsion box, with a cork cover to reduce resonances, X-Carve is attached with L-brackets , and I added some 1/4" hardboard/masonite shields for the Y rails that are attached via 3 bolts to the maker slide.
Base has a rack for the controller, power supplies, PC, and any other rackmount equipment Iāll be using (thereās a receiver in there for eventually wiring up the shop sound system). Since Iām in a small shop the drawers hold all the bits and tools as well as other things like fasteners that I used to store in this part of the shop.
I tried to upload some more photos but itās being a bit touchy right now
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I had considered doing this to my x-carve but since Iāve the dust shoe now, it has eliminated the need for these!
Looks great! One of the cleanest looking rail protectors Iāve seen, might have to get this a go.
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I have found with my dust shoe, sometimes it gets clogged. And still throws dust before I can get it cleaned.
thanks, the downside to using hardboard is that the corners break easily, but since itās so cheap I can easily replace it. Now I need to come up with more projects to use the x-carve on.
How are the rails attached?
which rails are you referring to? the whole machine is attached to the bench with 4 of these while the dust shields are attached to the upper slot of the makerslide by 3 post-assembly insertion nuts and some 8mm (I think) pan head screws. the bottom of the hard board just hangs down and rests on the extrusions that support the waste board. Iād have to go back out and measure but I either used 1/4" or 1/8" hardboard and cut it so that the X rails would have approximately 5mm of clearance down the length of the Y rails. Iāll try to do the photo thing again tonight.
Thatās what I was asking. Thanks. I didnāt even think of using insertion nuts, great idea. This is probably my next project. (It will look WAY better than my cardboard and masking tape 
).