I’m thinking same way Charley. Raising Y plates have not much benefits, unless you want to machine very thick materials. I think 99 out of 100 person never even try that. That makes it non-profitable attempt to produce.
The real deal everyone have same issue about squaring X axis. Because X axis maker slide is attached to X axis plates are not sufficiently holding straight. Y axis’s needs to be aligned every time before turn the machine on.
If you can come-up with the idea holding gantry straight by adding 90 degree angle aluminum corner pieces to it, that sells.
I tried couple of L brackets with no success. It’s got to be machined corner pieces with alignment push screws for one time adjustment.
You can see the corner I’m talking about on following picture.
What abut using something like the corner brackets like those used on the framework under the waste board?
Good morning Allan,
Here is the new video where I went to a friends house and installed the new script on his machine and ran the code. This is after the tweaks I added. The latest version that incorporates the edits is version 7a1 and is online for download. I think I spelled your name Allen in the video, my bad!!
I use a aluminum spacer to insure that both sides of the Y axis are aligned prior to powering up the CNC. If the outer frame of the machine is square then insuring that both end plates of the X axis are the same distance from the Y axis end plates should make the entire machine square. The ugly truth is that when I power mine up and move the Y axis all the way to the front, there is a variation of about 1/16 inch in distance from the Y end plates from one side to the other. The spacer corrects this then I power up and the steppers keep the alignment intact. A simple solution but effective and a lot less trouble then modifying the machine.
Hello Charley,
Nice video, its good to see the code working on another machine. You did spell my name correctly.
You may want to add a short description about using the touch plate with tool changes, thats when you would just want to zero the Z axis by entering “y” at the first screen. Then the X and Y zeros would be preserved from the initial zero.
Hello Charley,
I want one of your Triquetras
Please send me the discount code.
Thank you very much,
Jim
Use “3corners” in the shopping cart and it will give you $20.00 off the total.
Thank you for your interest,
Charley
That’s what I’m doing all the time. Looks like my destiny. I had a Jawa bike when I was young, changing idle adjustment every day. I was carriying a screw driver stick to somewhere and adjusting once a day. Now I have EX-carve. 
Charley I’m interested in the Probe, but I had a question.
Sorry, if this has already been explained in the thread. I glanced through the messages, but I could have missed it.
Do you have to close Easel before use of UGS? I have poor wifi in my shop so I generally leave projects open all of the time, because it can be iffy if I can get them open again with resetting my router. Furthermore, I do many projects that require bit changes- so again I would be difficult to have to cut, close Easel, run UGS, then reopen the project to make another cut with a different bit.
Also, I am not familiar with any other program than Easel. I use a mac, would I have any issues running you suggested set-up?
Unfortunately you do have to close Easel to Auto Zero with any touch plate, not just mine. Easel does support bit changing but does not support the probing commands. Until they change that, you will always be setting your z height the ol’ fashioned way. You can’t run UGS and Easel at the same time, they both capture the com port when they are loaded and won’t share it with any other program.
Thanks for you interest though,
Charley
Thanks, Charley. Maybe they we’ll get something worked out with Easel where touch plates could be integrated into the software.
I couldn’t agree more. All they need to do is allow probing commands in the g-code spec and all would be good.
Hey Charley, I noticed on your latest video an upgrade from the gator clip to some sort of magnet. Could you elaborate on that a little? I find myself wishing for a different option than the gator clip with all the small bits I use.
I saw one online and thought that was just the cat’s meow and had to figure it out. I made one to try out and it actually works like a charm. I use a rare earth magnet so there is no chance of it falling off. Ordered more parts to make them with and those just came in yesterday. I thought I would offer them as an upgrade to the alligator clip. The upgrade would include 6 feet of good quality flexible wire with the Magnetic ground and banana plug pre-installed. All the use has to do at that point is make the connections to their machine.
I have been using mine for a while now for testing and it has worked flawlessly. I’ll let you know when I start making them and they are available.
Charley
7/01/2016 Stock Update / G-Code Generator Update / Magnetic Ground Connector coming soon.,
I’ve been busy making Touch Plates and other goodies. I have 16 Triquetra 3 Axis Auto Zero touch plates ready to ship. Place your order at www.charlindwoodcraft.com and don’t forget to msg me for the discount code to get $20.00 off.
I have also started making a magnetic connector that will replace your alligator clip that is attached to the bit. Now you can just pop the magnet on the collet of your spindle. I am using a rare earth magnet so it holds on very well and stays out of the way giving you more clearance to lower your bit. It holds on better than an alligator clip which can slip off when using larger bits and insures a solid ground connection.
I have been using the prototype for several weeks now and it works flawlessly. These will be available as an upgrade when ordering the Triquetra Touch Plate or by themselves. I anticipate these will be available in about a week. Oh, they come prewired with 6 feet of 16 gauge stranded coper wire that is very flexible and a prewired banana plug. Just connect the wire to your Probe input and ground and you are ready to go! You have probably seen the wire I use in my videos.
Here is a quick video clip taken from an earlier video I posted.
Count me in on that. The alligator clip keeps biting me and I certainly would like the extra clearance to make it easier with those .25" endmills. Mine like to come off the bit at the most inconvenient moments of the zeroing.
I’ll send you a note when I have some finished. I never did like the alligator clips to start with either.
The new Magnetic Ground Connectors with wire and Banana Plug are online now at www.charlindwoodcraft.com. $10.00 with free First Class US Mail to USA Only. They will be available to add to new Touch Plate orders for both International addresses and US addresses.
They come with the Banana Plug and Magnetic Ground connector soldered in place. All you have to do is replace your existing wire with this one. If you have watched any of my Zeroing videos, this is the same wire that I am using. It rolls up nicely to hang on a hook when not in use, If you don’t put a sharp bend in it, it will straighten out and lay flat. It uses a Rare Earth Magnet with 6 pounds of holding power so it stays securely connected to your collet and out of the way for zeroing.
Ordered mine. Can’t wait till it gets here. Seems like a much better solution and I am eager to try it out.
I think your gonna love it. I certainly do. Yours will mail out on Tuesday since the post office is closed this coming Monday.
Been using Charlie’s Triquetra for a month or so. Although I wasn’t privy to the forum discount, it was still a great purchase. Highly recommend it.