@RyanEdwards the premium pine at the box stores doesn’t have any knots in it, and is sanded very smooth. Saves me time on finishing before staining.
I pick through and get some good ones very few knots and I have been using the carve spray and send through planer technique so nice smooth finish would be taken off anyway. Good to know for projects that I won’t be using the planer to finish though.
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Do you get any bleed through doing that? Unless I seal the wood with a sanding sealer I usually get some bleed through from the paint in the letters when using pine.
I do but the golden oak stain I add after seems to wash it out enough to get away with it. The first pic had some really nasty bleed through before staining you can still see a bit of black around the knot. Both of these looked horrible before stain. I kind of wish I took a before pic I did not think these 2 were going to be salvageable.
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@PhilJohnson Its definitely more expensive…unless they priced it wrong and you bought all they had in stock…so I’ve been told…lol
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I would assume 2 key hole slots aligned vertically, not side by side would have been more effective. Suppose that’s what you get when you use metric.
I’m a little peeved. I saved a TON of images to convert over and start making these things, but Inkscape/Easel decided to be a d***k and not want to convert images right or some nonsense.
Anybody else pissed at the alignment or lack ther of on those hangers? Lol
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that dang sticker isn’t even straight!
Willing to share any of these files? 
There’s always one of you in the group… I’m usually one of them too lol. These files are quick and easy V-carvings I was able to make most of them in about 15 minutes each in V-carve pro. I will share one to get you started. With that one file you can just delete the image and add your own after to create more. Do you need a DXF or CRV and which one you want? My files have the holes for my openers and screw holes pre drilled with the v bit so they are lined up for me. I cannot gaurantee all openers are the same layout so may want to measure whatever opener you get and and make sure it’s the same or just remove those from your tool path and line it up on your own after carving.
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Hey Ryan, I was asking MikeEllison, (hence the little reply thing in the corner). Not trying to be rude, just like the ones he made and figured I’d ask.
No problem I noticed that and scrolled up but didn’t see any from him and assumed you replied to the wrong one thought I would offer not knowing who you were asking. Must have missed his post when I scrolled back through.
Casey Grab anything from your Google search. Search beer logos black and white save Pic import to Easel
https://www.google.com/search?q=beer+logos+black+and+white&rlz=1C1PRFC_enUS743US743&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiT2Ky426rXAhVXImMKHRBdAxMQsAQIJw&biw=1920&bih=949
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That’s just what I was looking for! Thanks.
What bit(s) do you use to get such fine detail?
1/32 mostly
I finally tried making some yesterday. Got 2 down, then the bits started to break. Lost 2 1mm bits and one 1/16" bit. So I hit the punching bag in the garage (right next to the x-carve by the way), poured a glass of scotch, lit a cigar, and watched some football. I’ll try more tonight
Nic’s Method is at least fun to watch…
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Tapered ball nose bits 1mm - .5mm are much stronger. give em a try.
I had an idea for an opener. Googled it to see if anyone else has done it and sure enough it has been!
I Googled beer bottle opener game
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