Looking into purchasing this but did anyone do this for a specific project in mind? or projects? If so do you mind sharing?
I mounted my M12VC on the original newbie slide. In my case I used the belt drive version to balance out the weight better so that the Z motor (270 oz/in) is directly over the X axis. I got my mounts from Zenbot. The mount came with a back plate that I didn’t use and I drilled my own mounting holes. Newbie will drill/tap the mounting hole if you give them the bolt pattern. I am very happy with this set up and as an aside, I also have another “X” axis using t
he newbie direct drive so I’m able to compare the performance of the two different systems to get accurate accounting of the two.
Has anyone figured out how to use the Inventables Dust Collection accessory with this Z axis upgrade?
As I was going through newBie store I saw two option for x-carve. Z Axis Slide 6" - 7 " Travel for CNC Router 3d Printer Plasma for sale online | eBay? and Z Axis CNC Slide Xcarve 6 " Travel Anti-backlash X Carve for sale online | eBay?
One sells for 140$ and the other one going for 195$. Does anyone have any experience with the cheaper option? Like some recommended I dont want to go for the belt driven if it is going to skip steps.
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After installing the Z-Slider from cnc4newbie - which I love, BTW - I realized that I had to do some modifications to the Suckit Dust Boot supports and side arms. Rather than just cut the acrylic top & bottom pieces I decided to make new ones out of oak, just because I like to do that kind of thing.
I used 6-32 rivnuts so I could tighten all the pieces.
I’m very pleased with how it turned out. One of these days I have to learn Fusion 360 or get a more sophisticated software but for now Easel is working for everything I want to do! I may never be able to turn out the kind of artwork that many others do but it’s still a great piece of equipment for my shop!
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BBoyd
My 20 cents:
1- You run that motor too slow…you get resonance from motor windings. It won’t matter normally but in the middle there is the weakest section with less rigidity.
2- There is too much loose tolerance between steel lead screw and the bronze nut. A bronze nut is the ideal application but the right tolerances has to be present, not the case here.
In other applications on z axis designs a Delrin nut hugs the screw with smooth movement.
Phil,
What type of bearings do you have in your Z axis?
Hi Mark7, The nut they use are acetal(delrin) not bronze and yes what we ear it’s only resonance and for reducing this he can change his microstep setting for more micro step.
The stock setting is 1/2, better to use 1/8 or more when using a stepper a low RPM.
My 2 cents!!
Reason I ask is you know that I bought the Z plunge ~ the end of august.
Every thing was great and rock solid, but now I’m starting to detect a slight wobble and vibration in the unit.
I can see movement at the bearing as the unit moves up and down.
I’ve contacted Kyle and he said that the bearings are delrin.
Could the delrin be wearing out already?
It doesn’t make much sense to me because we all have delrin nuts (yup I just saw it too) for our lead screws.
Thoughts?
Brian, Thanks for the installation details. I am in the process of installing the same z-axis. In your photo, on the limit switch, it looks like you are using the connection on top and the top connection of the two on the side, is that working for you?
I received mine this week, and perhaps based on your feedback, cnc4newbies is now including wire connectors for the limit switch. Thanks!
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Just found out My wife ordered the CNC4Newbies Z slider for me for X=MAS!!! YAY ill be reading up on this post soon!
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Kyle is sending me some new bearings.
Apparently they are easy to replace.
Again, I really don’t understand why it wouldn’t be a good choice because the Z lead screw nut is also delrin and it still works perfectly.
And there is a lot more friction there than on a couple of glassy smooth rods.
How do we wire the limit switch on the Linear-Z ? I see 3 terminals.
Top and bottom is NC. Can’t recall the other, but you can test with a multimeter.
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You choose two of the three. One pin is Common, the other is Normally Closed (NC) and the third is Normally Open (NO)
You choose NC if you want the trigger of the switch to BREAK the connection. (Change $5=1)
You choose NO if you want the trigger to complete the connection (circuit)
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OK… that is the info I was looking for. Thanks.
ok i just ordered myn just got to wait for it to be shipped so just so i am 100% ready for install what i got out of this discussion is…
- install it self explain.
2.rewire it is there specific wires or adapters i will need to buy to extend it?
3.loctiite the screws going to into the circle drive ( belt drive)
4.thought someone said to change these? cant remember the order again for the z part.
- redo grbl to this…
$132=100.000
$131=790.000
$130=790.000
$122=100.000
$121=500.000
$120=500.000
$112=1800.000
$111=8000.000
$110=8000.000
$102=50.059
$101=39.900
$100=39.950
$32=0
$31=0
$30=1
$27=1.000
$26=250
$25=750.000
$24=25.000
$23=3
$22=1
$21=0
$20=0
$13=0
$12=0.002
$11=0.020
$10=115
$6=0
$5=0
$4=0
$3=0
$2=0
$1=255
$0=10
6.anything else i am missing or tips? thank you
I just installed mine last week, all is working great thanks to those contributing this post. A few things I would add…
• To remove the existing pulley from the Z stepper motor, I used a 1.5mm hex key
• I use Easel primarily. the only GRBL settings I changed manually are:
$102=50.059
$112=750
• If you are using Easel, you can reverse the Z direction in the Machine set-up. Select “No” when it asks you to test X, Y, Z movement. This works fine, but I think re-wiring is the better option.
• Easel machine set up will also change $102 when you select the Z-axis rod type, so make sure edit $102 after running machine setup.
• I also had to drill larger holes in my Dewalt motor mount to align with the z-slider. Only the top two holes. Test your fit first, it may be fine.
• No changes needed for me to the boards or circuitry. I’m using the original X-carve g-shield/Arduino.
• You will likely need to extend some wires. I had extra stepper wire that I spliced into the existing stepper connector wires.
I can only say that this is what was needed for me to get it working, but as far as optimization, I haven’t needed to dive any further.
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Hey y’all,
I’m using a slightly heavier router now (Hitachi M12VC) and I’m seeing some flex on my Z-axis that looks like this:
Is this the type of issue that the linear Z upgrade is likely to alleviate? Or is this something else? Appreciate any insight.
I have the original newbie 5"-6" slider with the belt drive with a Hitachi M12vc router attached. I also have a 270 oz/in motor to drive it and I don’t have any problems at all with the system. I chose the belt drive model so that I could place the drive motor directly over the X axis belt in order to transfer some off the weight from the front of the unit.
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