I actually just put that one together in my head about two hours ago, Aaron! I’ve got a solid model of it now, I’m actually tempted to try machining my own bottom shoe to fit on the Kent upper, and re-install their brush ring on it, just for testing. 
It does make sense, thank you, but if I can figure how to do that slope, I don’t have to do on separate pieces. Only internal pocket wall needs to be 45degree angle
Alan, don’t you have Xcarve pro? It should be able to do a two rail sweep around the grove to make a 45 degree angle.
I’m planning to do it a bit simpler. I will make a piece on the X-Carve out of 1/4" MDF that is the correct size, then I will take it out to the shop, trace it onto a piece of wood, band-saw and sand that piece to size, then use the MDF template I made (taped to the top with double-stick tape) to guide the pilot of a 45-degree chamfer router bit around the profile, leaving me a perfect 45 on the finished piece. Will take longer to tell about than actually do.
EDIT: I could also just make a STEP of it, and have Fusion360 toolpath it for a 1/4" ball nose like most other 3d carves. Heck, or just have it 3Ded in Fusion360, using waterline profiling… that might be easiest yet.
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Making 45 degree angle is easy part. Making 45 degree angled edges to hold brush is important. You have to turn exact pocket 45 degree. I already made angle with .125 Ball end, outer edge I did with 45 degree V-Bit, looking nice, I have no 45 degree angle A type bit for inner edge. I tried Dove tail bit, it’s not even close.
Come again?
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Can you just epoxy the brush edge to the 45 deg you cut with the vbit. That should slant it out.
Got it. I will cut another ring to hold brush down either Epoxy or rivets. It will be almost invisible anyway.
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Maybe reverse that. Straight cut the brush groove and 45 chamfer the inner ring. Might be easier. Just a thought
This time it forces brush material to bend, I don’t want to do that. When it bends, it opens and dust escapes out. I want it to stay natural and 45 degree angle to work surface.
Something like this.
Almost finished my dust shoe based heavily on Alan’s design. I made some changes by making the top half out of a pieces of 0.093 acrylic and the bottom shoe out of some 1/2" Birch plywood. I made the walls of the channel that the brush rides in a little wider after I broke them trying to get the brush inserted the first time.
All that’s left is making the mounting plate and getting it attached. That won’t happen until tomorrow but I wanted to share progress. Really happy with having the entire top of the shoe transparent, I think it’s going to give really good visibility.
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Did someone said Self Height adjusting Dust Shoe. Notice up and down movements.
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Hey Dan, I found following site you may interest. Looks like something you suggest.
http://www.kronosrobotics.com/air-exchanger-products/long-brush-kit
McMaster is cheaper.
That’s what’re we using. It changing Z axis, it’s kind of hard. We’re looking for alternatives.
what bristle diameter are you using?
OK gotcha. I read through the entire tread. I was using the same brush but on the 24V spindle. I just set up my Dewalt 611 Spindle mount. I watch the video and saw the z movement in the dust head but it looks like there is not enough travel. I going to go to the to solidworks and try to come up with something that keeps the bristles at the surface without pushing back, spring loaded or free floating on the spindle head. I have reinforced the x axis with a piece of 3/16" x 3’ aluminum instead of steel. Keeps the mass down. I have (3) 3D printers not to mention several scanners so I hope I can come up with something that works well. I will definitely share. Oh and if anyone wants the furniture bolts from McMaster let me know I had to buy a bag of 25 bolts and cap nuts, only used 3 of each. Had to cut the screw down, nothing a dremel or hacksaw can’t handle. Just let me know, I’ll only charge for shipping.
Before you go further, you must know that, we did all those steps, stiffening, everything works well. Only problem you can notice is pocketing operation. As soon as Bristle touches to material, you have bad pocket bottom surface. This is my 4th dust shoe, I design this. But I know now that we have to use soft plastic not the Bristle. I tried 45 degree angle for not to press directly down, this time when spindle changing direction, you can see head movement. Every high level CNC equipment have dust shoe with soft material.
I can see on your picture. If shoe stands up like that, you will have problem. Go ahead press it straight down to see how much holding power Bristle have.