Instruction showing 1/4" from the bottom. This time collet lock button is invisible. I shaved yellow part of router not to touch plate, if it is too much down, this time touching delrin nut screws. I think best place to insert is until lock button clears the mouth. Like I was telling on hangout, check to see if router staying straight. Seems kind of heavy, sagging nose down a little. I had to insert shim between extrusion unit and holding bar by loosing two screw down below.
How bad is the sagging? I’m about to install mine today due to my default spindle died over the weekend and mine has been down ever since. My mount arrived today.
I’m not done wiring mine, but with the 611 in the mount I don’t see any deflection/twist along the 500mm length.
hmm ok mine is the 1000mm so this should be interesting… now just have to figure out a dust shoe for it that i can load up into easel to deflect the air out to the sides.
I can say you can fold regular letter type paper 4 times and insert between extrusion and carriage rail to straight up.
I’m new to the CNC world. However, I did just ordered the x-carve 1000mm fully loaded with the 300V spindle. Why is the DeWalt 611 better? Seems like some people are having trouble adapting it so it will be able to work properly? Thanks
The DWP611 has more power, a built in speed control and built in work lights.
As compared to the Bosh Colt and the Dewalt DWE6000
- “MORE POWER!” But seriously, not having the RPM reducing under load will help get clean, constant results.
- You can get an external speed control but in my case it cost more than the cost of upgrading from the 6000 to the 611.
- It may seem trivial but those built in work lights are very helpful. The router and gantry will cast a shadow on the work area, so the one place you have trouble seeing is the one place you need to see.
Anyone using the DWP611 router in the new mount yet? I am just getting ready to install mine, but how are people mounting theirs so that the router’s collet lock is usable, but also not rubbing the case of the router on the X-carve itself. Was hoping someone who already found the optimal method would post a pic or two.
Mine arrived today and I’m wondering the same thing. Also mine seems very tight, to the point where i am having to force the router into the sleeve and its still not really going in and this is without even putting in the 3 screws to clamp it down… Need some advice…
Just and idea, but…
Before sliding it into the sleeve, can you pry it open just a hair with a wedge or wood or something that won’t mar the finish? If it looks close, but is still just a little tight to fit, then a slight pry might just do the trick.
Precision milled or extruded parts sometimes have problems fitting together due to heat/cold expand/contract issues.
ill try that but the top of the DWP611 is a little too large to fit over the top without either shaving the router plastic or the top of the Z axis.
The spindle mount isn’t really optimal for the DWP611, but I sanded the router case to give it proper clearance for the top of the Z axis. I also modified the spindle mount itself to give me access to the collect lock. I didn’t want to mount my router 1/2 to 3/4 inches lower to have access to the collect lock because then I loose that space on my Z axis, so I used a Dremal cut off wheel, Dremal sanding wheel and some of my wife’s black nail polish and fixed the issue.
Very nice I may have to do the same .
How is everyone handling the AC power cable for the DW611? If you cut the AC plug off, will it fit in the drag chain?
I cut the AC plug off and ran it through the first drag chain. It will go through the first drag chain with three feet of cord left. I cut off all but 4 inches and then I picked up an 8 foot extension cord and ran it back through the other drag chain and then soldered and used heat shrink where the two cables met (which is between the two drag chains) so now my router cable is run through the drag chain and it still leaves me about 4.5 feet of cable to reach my outlet.
Tip: The power cord is rubberized and can only be pushed through so far before encountering resistance. Instead, I ran a bit of higher gauge plastic coated wire through the drag chain, butted the wires end to end with duct tape. I pushed it through. As it came out, my son gently pulled it as I was pushing it through.
Here is what I did.
As you can see how far is the original cable goes, I extend it.
Build one Solid State Relay box to connect Dewalt.
And I used 24V Spindle Power out pins to activate Relay, then Dewalt starts and stops automatically.
I was going to do the same, but since I had room in the drag chain, I figured “Why not”
Here is mine…
Perfect, Looks like I rushed it a little. I will put inside first chance.
(Look at the Table, Dewalt mouth push button housing. Men, you’re good.)
I like the relay idea. I’ll have to order one.