Just wondering what I can fix
I used a .125 endmill
And .06 ball nose for finish pass. Took total about 3 hours and 50 mins. Piece is 9x9
Yea the cutout drifted so I tried best I can.
The thing I’m most worried about is those lines. I’m still trying to learn the 3D modeling so I knew that was so so. I had a stock piece of oak. Just wondering if it needed planed more or not
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Yeah I turned up the z pot previous night. Might of turned it up a little too high
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Ok. Yeah I’ll watch that mountain man link and follow along. I though z axis setup was fine, but I’ll take another look at it
Those lines are def cause of z axis?
I have a feeling after looking it’s might be my x axis pulley it doesn’t stay flush with motor. Seems comes like it’s loose (despite having blue loctite in set screws). I gotta figure out how to keep it in place. Anyone have any ideas besides loctite?
It doesn’t stay like this in the x carriage even though I have loctite on it. I had to push it back.
Apart from all the mechanical tips, work like that probably is better cut using 2.5D operations.
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where is that link at?
to calibrate the stepper motor potentiometers
here is 1, there are a few out there. Scroll down from top, stepper calibration is the 4th video
https://discuss.inventables.com/t/x-carve-maintenance-troubleshooting-videos-add-your-own/13405
Thanks
I had the same “wiggle” in my stock Z, but could not remove it. To me it seems like an unfixable flaw in the design, so I went with a linear rail Z.
That is your problem glad you found it.
Mine doesn’t move at all. You may have same movement on others (X and Y).
Go over for adjustments one more time and don’t rush it. You can find enough info if you search.
The best way I found is taking belt off, adjusting wheels again and again until I found slick movement by hand.
Belts and Acme screw always confusing. Make them free to move by hand first.
One more thing, I replaced all the washers between bearings with thinner washer. You can find my posts as well.
I had a constant adjustment kinda thing going on with mine. Either the v wheels were too tight (after tightening to remove the wiggle) and caused lost steps, or I had the wiggle if the wheels were slackened to where they should be.
In the end I bit the bullet and replaced the Z. If I was just using the xcarve as a strictly hobby machine it may have been fine for that, but constant problems with it were costing me time and money.
To me the Z wheels sit too far from the spindle mount plate. Those four independent bolts are where my wiggle came from.
To be honest I also had a similar (albeit smaller) wiggle in the x carriage, but have since replaced the eight wheel bolts with 4 threaded rods/solid axles.
The video is working on my s8
indeed, why would you even use a ballnose for that? I think you should first mill using the correct methods, then troubleshoot.
I understand but why don’t you do a simple pattern, using only 1 endmill and post the result of that. It’s a question of ruling out as many variables as possible.
I had the same wiggle in my z also had a bent lead screw, but got way better results. Try this calibration test Calibration Test Procedure.
I did end up going to the linear rail Linear Actuators for sale | eBay There are better ones out there but this one fit my budget.
You do have to drill and tap the holes. All I did was clamp it to the carriage and drill, doesn’t have to be too accurate because you need a little room to align. There is also one on Ebay that is drilled and tapped for the xcarve, I think it ran about $160.00 or so.