Couldn’t find m3x12 nylon screws locally but 6/32 x 1/2 worked fine and it snugs down nicely. However unless I’m missing something altogether I’m seeing that as the fixture connects to the maker slide the clearance from your work piece is fully dependent on the position of your maker slide on the Z axis. And if you install the maker slide per Instructable’s directions with the base just a 1/4 in proud on the bottom, the fixture when slid all the way up will only clear 15/16 above the work table. Of course you can certainly move the maker slide higher on the gantry which may be just fine.
One on the left, which wasn’t quite as smooth is the PLA. My local 3d printing shop here in Petaluma CA said they couldn’t get to the job for a couple of weeks and wanted $150. When I said I’d like it sooner they referred me to a guy who works out of a local Radio Shack who turned them both around in 24 hours. I think Francis has a video of it in action further up in this thread.
ABS will warp with FDM printers if proper bed adhesion wasn’t used or if the printer has a draft near it causing the plastic to warp a bit. ABS can be a real tool if the planets arentry aligned. PLA tends to be a bit more stiff and tents to break like glass compared to ABS that usually will bend quite a bit before breaking. I personally printed mine with ProtoPasta carbon fiber infused PLA. It’s pretty strong and and prints so smooth like butta.
My question is this. Is there a version for the Standart 24V spindle. I don’t have a need for anything more as of yet so I won’t be upgrading to the Dewalt any time soon. I’m hoping the latest version that was recently purchased will work with both the Dewalt and the standard inventables spindle. Thoughys?
Has anyone cut the acrylic piece to the extractor? I loaded the dxf file in VCarve Pro and don’t know if it is MM or Inches. It first loaded like this: X-55.6" Y-54.1105" Z-.25". Also when I finally get this thing what bit would be used and the feeds & speeds?
thanks for any help.
I might sound like a smart ■■■ but if you think about it if it says 55 and you know the piece is not 55 inches but more likely 55mm then go with mm. That’s how I do it and it has always worked
You should connect the hose connector before mounting. :D. I printed mine in ABS so I just use miniral spirit or acentone to glue the hose connector.
I was printing PLA before but just dont like the brittleness of it on small parts and also I master printing on ABS where I never even use rafting (I hate those). Also I always design without support or I design my own support materials if they cannot be avoided like this one. I dont like automatic support for the 3d printer. Its hard to remove and ugly unless you sanded them.
So use mm to cut the acrylic. Best bit is a 1/8" single O-flute bit running at 50 in/min at 10000 rpm I managed to cut mine at 100 in/min at 22000 rpm because I use dewalt 611.
Thanks for the reply and I’ll try to get more versed in metric vs. imperial as time goes on. Whole new ballgame for a total newbie. I also have the 611 so I will try those speeds.
The one I posted is for the standard spindle, though it is different than Francis’
Has anyone tried converting this style for the standard spindle in wood that can carved by the X-carve? Perhaps fastend to the threaded holed on left of the Spindle extrusion.
I printed the posted mount and am using with dewalt 611. It works great I actually cut about an inch off the pieces that go into the extrusion and redrilled holes for mounting so I did not have to take z axis apart to install it
just milled the acrylic from a plastic food container and came out perfect. Now I can’t wait to mount it up. I just need a sleeve to connect my vac hose to the extractor.
Both the Dewalt 611 router & the 3d printed dust shoe (thanks to @FrancisMarasigan for posting those files), arrived from a 3dhubs vendor. Printed in Black PLA in high quality; I don’t know too much about 3d printing, but the quality looks pretty good, and the vacuum adapter snaps into the shoe, although I’ll most likely be adding some epoxy to make it more permanent.
Just a few more days… UPS says my X-Carve will be arriving by end of day on Tuesday!
I’m trying to cut out the acrylic cover as my first Xcarve project, but am having some trouble. I am using a 1/4" bit (still waiting for the 1/8" collet I ordered for my Dewalt 611), and the part is always coming out too small. I tried selecting outline “follow path” and “outside,” but it didn’t seem to make a difference. It appears the correct part size is right in the middle of my cut, regardless. Any ideas what I’m doing wrong? I opened the DXF in Illustrator and saved it to a SVG from there.
Is the part shape just a circle like it appears in the pictures? If so, I’d measure the opening and just create a circle to match in Easel. You can enter the size by hand to get it precise. Select outside for the cut and make sure you pick the right endmill diameter when you start the carve. If that still doesn’t work I suspect you might have some tuning to do on your machine.
Usual culprits are stepper motor power (ie: turn up X/Y axis pots), v-wheel tightness, slipping pulleys, and loose belts. There are lots of threads to give tuning advice.
I think you may want to read this thread: Adjusting motor current/voltage
It’s as Mark pointed out either related to pulley tightness, or the amount of power available to the motors. The linked thread should send you down the correct path for diagnosing which is which however.
I’m not sure if it’s okay to link to outside sources, but if anyone is interested in having the part printed, you can visit my 3D Hubs page. The price should be around $18-20 with shipping depending on how far you’re located from me.
Figured it out. The problem was that the outer border DXF file had multiple paths in it when I converted to SVG, and the inside/outside feature only works with closed loops. I joined the multiple paths into a single path in Illustrator and re-saved as SVG and problem solved. Here is my modified SVG file.